showing the flag

Sometimes when the CG is unable to attend events us entry level officers (ELOs, apparently being called junior officers was too offensive?)are asked to go in his place and be the American presence. Some are really cool, others a bit less glamorous. Regardless of the ELO perception of the event, when an invitation is given to the CG it comes from people who genuinely want to build relations with the U.S. and a lot of great public diplomacy can occur just by showing up. Tonight was my first such event. Frankly, after a full day of work and recovering from complete icky sickness the day before, I was dreading having to sit and smile all suited up. And right before I got panicked that maybe I would be expected to speak or at least mingle and say appropriate things! So I looked real quick on the internet to get talking points and catch up on recent events, printing some things out. In the car I read some of these things and got myself mentally prepared for what looked to be a few hours of sitting still and listening to speeches. Upon approaching the hotel, the car first had to have the requisite "security check". When I walked in and gave my card (yes I have cards now! english on one side, tamil on the other)I started to realize the power of being with the consulate. I was treated like someone important, escorted around and given coffee and then seated in the first row in the VIP section where everyone had their names on their chairs. Hmmmmm, a reminder that although I'm not important, the position is and the position builds bridges. The evening started with an impressive singing performance, followed by speeches, bouquet and plaque giving, videos. The winner of the award, Shri. Sunil Bharti Mittal, gave an inspiring and interesting speech. In all, I learned a lot both about the importance of showing up and about Indian industry, some of the important names as well as some of the important themes. It was particularly interesting to hear their take on the rising power of entrepreneurism in the country, especially for an economist. Oh, and I am understanding more and more that Indians love the word "august".

first impressions of chennai

Today marks three weeks in Chennai and the Consulate in all its wisdom decided I needed a day off to celebrate and contemplate. Later today I think I'm going to San Thome Cathedral but for now I'm going to take advantage of my internettedness and catch up a bit on this blog thing.

My first weekend in Chennai was really just about catching up on sleep. My sponsor picked me up at the airport late at night and dropped me at my new apartment, having left me some awesome food she had prepared. I made a great impression my first day when I got so hungry that I freaked out a bit on the RSO and then fell asleep multiple times during the meeting of section heads. OOOOps.

My apartment is HUGE. There is a lot of furniture and it is pretty nice, just not at all my style. Luckily though I will be able to have covers made pretty cheap and I will get the walls painted so hopefully by the time Natalie arrives (September 28...46 days, not that I'm counting or anything) my pad will be pretty finely pimped. Okay, I must admit that right now I am watching a show about cheese, really boring but man the cheese is pretty.

Saturday after I arrived I pretty much only had energy to walk with my sponsor to Amma Nana's, the expat grocery store. The walk was not long but frankly a bit scary, one must REALLY pay attention while walking the streets given the amount of vehicles, potholes, animals, people, whatever on the street. Seeing everything that is available at the grocery store(albeit at more American prices) I feel a little silly about how much food I packed in my household effects (HHE). Most important, there is a whole fridge of imported cheeses!!!! YIPPPEEEE!!!

That Saturday when I woke up there was a little trash fire happening across the street. Since it kind of went with the stray dogs, I took it in stride. However, later that night there was a bigger fire with an acrid chemical smell...I was very worried that it was a normal occurence but it has not happened since. Oh, and Friday evening I had a gas leak (downside, there was a gas leak, upside I totally have a gas stove/range...sweet!) which was "fixed" once and then fixed again Saturday when it leaked again....here's hoping it really is fixed this time!

Oh, my least favorite part of my apartment...the toilet seat in the master bedroom. The design of the seat different and leaves me feeling as though I may fall in at any moment. Now that I could deal with but there is also a crack so my bum keeps getting pinched...ouch. Once I figured out how to turn on the hot water, electric outlets, fans and other stuff, the rest of the apartment is pretty sweet. I keep debating about which room I want...so far have stayed in the one room because when I arrived sheets were already on the bed and I was dead tired and the bathroom shower has a full tub. However, the other room has a lacking of trees by balcony so it gets gorgeous light.

Armed with a weekend of sleep, I was ready for my first full week of work. A lot of filling out forms, meetings, training. Monday night, I went out and learned/played bridge at a colleague's home. Apparently it is a weekly thing. The bridge was fun but I was excited by my first wine in Chennai!

By Tuesday, I had my household staff in place, a housekeeper/cook named Anu and a driver named Ranjan. Both had worked for the person who lived in my apartment before me and came highly recommended. Tuesday, I was taken to work by my driver and introduced to my new car. It was a strange experience buying a car without ever driving it...truth be told I still haven't driven my car...but it is working out.

Wednesday night was a going away party; there is a lot of turnover at the moment among entry-level officers here...a lot of us coming, a lot of them going...music, food, alcohol, the usual revelry...good times...got to see some more apartments, bridget realized she had an apartment within her apartment that she didn't know about (on one of the balconies there is a door leading to a small room and a bathroom, servant's quarters if you choose to have a live-in maid)...how nutty eh?

now online

finally got internets at home so hopefully can keep up with this whole blog thing...hoping it will be a way to keep in touch without having to write the same email to everyone!...the last post i put up i wrote in July a week after getting here...wrote on the computer but couldn't post until now...still didn't write about india yet though!...i have however posted pics on facebook, both of the pre-india journey and my first weekend day trip...

Thursday, July 30, 2009

I arrived in Chennai one week ago today. Holly arrives tonight. It all seems so strange. I want to commit to writing at least once a week so I remember things but everything is moving so fast and simply finding time to myself when I’m not EXHAUSTED is proving difficult. And now that I have taken so long to start writing about this crazy adventure I don’t even know where to begin!

I packed out of D.C. July 7. My little sister Natalie came and was a huge help, especially with the painting! I tired the poor girl out but am hoping to make it up to her when she arrives here in India! As fast as the past few weeks have gone it is crazy thinking that she will be coming here in about ten weeks. Wow.

After packing out of D.C., I went and stayed with my mom in Cape May where my Aunt Kathy joined us for a little relaxing. Mom and I then headed to Philly and finally went to James. The meal was excellent, especially my taglietelli with duck ragu and shaved chocolate. My goddaughter turned one and there was a fantastic birthday party where I got to say good-bye to a lot of family. There was a wine tour of the Brandywine Valley where I got to once again road trip with my cousin Ryan and have an excellent time with the Carr girls and our two fine drivers. Also in Philly I got to see Ross and Allison and Eleanor and have birthday cake with Buffy (and my final Pizza Box fix!).

From Philly I headed to NYC where I did the first of my consultations with DHS. It was quite amusing to see how scared my cab driver got when I asked him to take me to the immigration office…must have been the suit. NYC was full of delights – seeing my Jennifer from Arizona, meeting Finbar, eating bone marrow, having dinner with cousins Laura, Brian, Jennifer, Jaime at Perilla’s (although everything was excellent and we absolutely dined tapas style…I was surprised to find the game hen was my favorite), seeing the Frank Lloyd Wright exhibit at the Guggenheim with Maggie, getting my hair cut REALLY short (pics will be on Facebook eventually), and much more tomfoolery.

Got on the plane and left the States and realized…huh I no longer have a cell phone or computer access and very shaky plans about what I’m doing as I work my way to Chennai. I arrived in Brussels and it struck me how bizarre it was that I was about to meet the host family Natalie had a couple of years before when she was an exchange student. I worried that I would be unable to find them and unable to call them to let them know…but all was fine. Two adorable young women were waiting right after customs and after some hesitant staring we picked each other out! I got to see the Belgian Eiffel Tower (which is a huge atom…very pretty and also made for a World Expo) on Belgian National Day, had some great beers in the city and a fantastic and boozy dinner at their gorgeous home.

Then I was off to Delhi where again I wasn’t 100% sure what would happen when I landed. I got off the plane and had to take a bus from plane to terminal where I first had to get “screened” for swine flu. But I did have my first chance to go through the “Diplomats Only” line! And when I got through customs, there was a driver waiting for me with a sign. The Delhi airport is much nicer than it was just a few years ago when I was there last, a result of strong economic growth and many construction projects. Sadly, the streets had a lot less Ambassadors (the awesome Indian car, once the only car on the road) and still a lot of beggars. I stayed in a beautiful hotel on a high floor with an amazing view although all I did was order room service, drink a Kingfisher from the fridge for the novelty, watch the movie about the MIT prof who taught kids to count cards, and pass out. Well, I tried to pass out but jet lag and the strange changes in time zones caught up and I couldn’t fall asleep until after 3.

But I woke up on time and suited up and got to the embassy. Lots of meetings and then to the airport for my final flight…well after a delay in boarding due to the plane not getting in on time from its prior flight…and another delay on the tarmac due to rain…although once I was in my seat I just fell right asleep.

this is the what

bummed that ariana, the girl I me my last day at Commerce, did not pass the orals. I convinced my cousin Jenn to apply though and am hoping she gets in. She wants to be a specialist not a generalist and is super qualified but we shall see. Tamil class has gotten better, am now able to make some very simple sentences and have a tiny vocabulary. This past week I missed classes because I hurt my back....and then had to wade through the crazy health care system.

I could not get an appointment with a doctor, unfortunately do not have a primary, so I had to go to the ER at George Washington University. A) they made me take a urine test before letting me go into the treatment area, B) they had someone come in and offer me an AIDS test after I'd been laying there crying in pain for an hour and a half w/o treatment, C) they really didn't examine me, just prescribed pills....then the CVS pharmacist, a complete power-mad, obviously very tiny-united creep named Youssef Sakr, refused to fill my pain medication...he would fill 2 of my 3 scrips (all from same doctor prescribed at same time) but apparently decided I am a junkie and wouldn't fill my percocets. Even after talking with the GW ER. Ugh.

But the back is getting better and will go to class tomorrow. Sadly missed the Friday field trip to see the Cherry Blossoms. Last weekend got to go home. However, rented a car...an electric blue PT cruiser....AAAAAAAH....After all my rants about my severe hatred for the PT cruiser it must be divine retribution. However I couldn't figure out how to work the window so had to open the door (after locking and unlocking it several times) to show my ID to the security guard at FSI. UGH. I also couldn't figure out how to open the trunk. So I kept popping the hood. When I tried to get away from rest stop the car started a circus...blinking the interior light and giving me a crazy message saying "GATE AJAR"...seriously pretentious PT...the PT is an AMERICAN car it should say trunk open...eeeegads.

The CLO/FLO (Community/Family Liason Officer) from Chennai sent me a questionnaire to fill out so that I can be featured in the newsletter. The first few questions asked about my kids and then a question asked "What do the parents like to do?" Apparently they meant what does the FSO like to do but it raised my ire since I am already sensitive to feeling discriminated against in the foreign service for being single. So I replied by telling them what my mom, dad, stepmom and stepdad enjoy doing. I really need to grow a thicker skin and suck more up.

I also finally got my travel orders!!! However I am going to have to get them altered b/c they do not have a layover per diem allowed....since we are not allowed to fly first class and since my back is acting up I absolutely need to take the layover day. Apparently the travel techs never put them on unless they are requeste even though if the flying time is over I think 12 hours you are entitled to one. So it is a nuisance but should be easily resolved. I also got my diplomatic passport!!!! YAY!!! And my apartment complex has put the diplomatic clause in my lease so I'll be able to get out early!!! WOO-HOO!!!

Now I just have to start tackling my three page to-do list (and still growing) in earnest. EEEK.

a month past flag day...

...and it is just hitting me that in four months I'll be moving halfway around the world. I am spending today making lists of things I gotta get done and staring at the calendar. I've been in Tamil language training for the past three weeks and have seven more left. After many Sesame Street-esque days I can now recognize the alphabet and sound out words...although I rarely know what the words mean...it still just seems like a bunch of random sounds.
I've had a lot of visitors lately and have gotten to see some new and interesting parts of D.C. A few weekends ago I had some people over for dinner and then me and one of the gals went out salsa dancing...Cafe Havana has three floors, the top two are wooden floored crowded hot sweaty places pulsing with latin music...and men...so many men. I wanted to get my bearings and decided to try to go to bathroom after the floor was decided...three guys tried to make me dance on way to bathroom. Seriously was the kind of place where you could not possibly stand alone for a minute without someone trying to make you dance....so dance I did...it was a lot of spinny spinny crazy arms around the head and spinny spinny some more. Seeing the line of well-dressed latin men along the wall I couldn't help thinking of Anthony Bourdain and wondering if when all the line cooks get off work do they instinctively know to just get dressed up and come to this place? It was nuts.
Last night I went to a place called Dan's Cafe. This was a true dive. Not only was there no lock on the bathroom door but the little waiting area between bar and closet with toilet had a wall of multi-colored chewing gum to complement the very interesting grafitti. I ordered a vodka cranberry at the bar. I was given a bucket of ice, a fifth of vodka poured into one glass, a 16-ounce plastic bottle of cranberry juice and an empty glass....the place is almost self serve...now this ensemble only cost $12 so no real complaints here...well maybe a complaint about the loud jukebox which happened to play sweet home alabama and pour some sugar on me TWICE...EACH...but never quite got to my friend Joan's friend's selections...which was apparently 16 songs in a row of Paula Abdul....hmm maybe I shouldn't complain?

going to chennai!!!

The past seven weeks have been both the longest and fastest seven weeks of my life. A-100 officially ended on Friday as my class was sworn in by Deputy Secretary of State Steinberg. My mom came to the ceremony and was as impressed as me by the diplomatic reception rooms. I must note though that this time the fancy napkins were not out in the bathroom...security must have known the dilemma I faced the last time! While last time I saw the desk on which the Treaty of Paris was signed (and the treaty!), this time I noticed Thomas Jefferson's desk on which it is believed portions of the Declaration of Independence were written (it looked nothing like the desk in the Family Ties episode where Alex dreamed he was the man....but I digress).

I had told my brother about the reception on Wednesday in the DACOR house, formally occupied by multiple Justices of the Supreme Court, the reception hosted by many retired ambassadors. The DACOR house held the desk that John Adams and then every Secretary of State until the 1950's had used. It led my wonderful brother to describe my A-100 orientation as "From Desk 'til Dawn". Sigh.

Oh, but as my post title claims, I am going to Chennai! Chennai, formerly called Madras, has about 7 million people and was one of my top choices! Monday I start Tamil language class (a fast class to teach me the basics like where's the toilet?), then I have consular training. I will be leaving sometime in July and hope to have a Camping Extravaganza before I depart!

And...my awesome little sister Natalie is going to come live with me!!! I will in fact be calling her my housegirl! he he he. She's trying to find some volunteer opportunities and I'm thrilled she'll be with me as I start this journey.

A-100 was seven weeks of finding out all about how the State Department works, the various agencies with which we interact overseas, the ways to avoid being the dumbass at the embassy, being told to play nice and share our toys, getting to know my amazing and talented classmates (there were 92 of us!), and waiting waiting waiting to find out where we are going...oh yeah and meeting a president, a first lady, two secretaries of state, two deputy secretaries, undersecretaries and many ambassadors....it was a whirlwind. There is a bit of separation anxiety now that it is all over and I know I will no longer be herded into the cramped orientation room with my new bestest buds...but the thrill of starting language training is good compensation.

Now I have to figure out what to put in my consummables shipment...besides 1000 pounds of toilet paper and a long-handled broom......